Wednesday 13 February 2013

Tourist in town: markets and Macau



"Tonight: Victoria park flower market, either Stanley market or ladies market and some yummy street food and go to fancy dress road.
Saturday : Macau - go to see the panda hut, afternoon play at the casinos. Dinner at Jumbo Kingdom - Aberdeen.
Sunday - Disney land (10-4) , Man Mo temple (5) peak tower (6) - street food (7) and join the parade viewers. (8-9.30) parade. - night out in Lan Kwai Fong!
Monday - go see BiG Buddah, go to the fishing village for lunch and quick boat tour. Head over to Lamma island for 1pm and chill out! Head back for Fireworks (ozone) and dinner (somewhere nearby)
Tuesday - brunch! 12-6 Sha Tin Raceday, michellin starred restaurant.
Wednesday - drop baggage off. Go to ladies/Stanley market. Afternoon tea at the Ritz, dinner in Soho/walk down Hollywood road, 8pm light show at the harbour and then head to the airport :)"

I sent Helen's Hong Kong schedule round the office. 'Good luck', 'no rest for you', ' are you waking up at 6am every day?' It was rammed with everything mentioned in 'things to see and do in Hong kong'. I was desperate for rest. January has been a roller coaster. Chinese New Year is an opportunity to escape the city. Almost everyone I know has departed to a beach or equivalent for the week we have off work. Being new to this, I invited a friend. My most high maintenance, driven and expensive friend.
It's amazing having a friend in town. You notice the little things in Hong Kong again. The intricate details that are long forgotten, vanished in the depths of full time work, normal routine and life. To see the light show, witness the crowds, markets and hustle of Hong Kong again.
I was nervous for Helen's arrival. I can feel inferior around her, pushed around, an accessory. Receiving her schedule was like a bullet in the heart, I felt I was a mere tour guide and route to free accommodation. I felt used before it had even started.
I thought about why I was feeling this way. What was I expecting?
The schedule was packed but took in everything there was on the 'must see' list. She was here for a week and she didn't get to where she was today by siting around soaking up the atmosphere. It was a control issues. I feel uneasy when I feel dominated. I fear control but crave for formality. I had to embrace the week ahead.

We met at my apartment after work. We were allowed to knock off at 4, so naturally I left on the dot. We needed to book tickets for the ferry to Macau. I still haven't got a MasterCard/visa, we used Helen's.

On the evening schedule:

Victoria park, man mo temple, pottinger street, light show, ladies market, Temple Street night market. Usually my Friday night consists of a cuppa and an early night. The thought made me tired.
We missed the temple and Pottinger Street was shutting down for Chinese New Year. Another thing I didn't realise, everything closes for CNY, it's the China equivalent of Christmas. It's the biggest human migration in the world, you can see it from space!!!
We meandered from Pottinger Street to the ferry pier, via Abercrombie & Fitch. The place still confuses me. It's the strangest shopping experience. The lights are off, the staff high on something, there is a weird smell and naked men everywhere. I don't understand high street fashion, why does everyone want to buy clothes and look the same?
We took the star ferry over the harbour. I told Helen about the history, and why it's amazing to be travelling cross the harbour on a boat that has remained in this busy modern metropolis.
The light show was spectacular!!! Okay, maybe I'm exaggerating.
We made our way to the markets. A few stops on the MtR from TST to Mong Kok and straight to the street food. Maintaining a healthy diet when visitors are in town is nigh on impossible. They are here on holiday, so have the 'I'm on holiday' attitude. You know, the eat everything, drink everything 'I'm away' attitude.
We ordered beers and noodles and sat and watched the market life, hustle and bustle around us.
We strolled up and down the market. Stall upon stall filled with everything you can imagine. Clothes, shoes, gadgets, bags, sunglasses, phone covers, fakes, pictures, t-shirts, watches. Everything and anything.
From Mong Kok to Jorden for the ladies market, which was packing down by the time we arrived. Chinese New Year was approaching and the locals didn't want to hang around a moment longer than they needed. A flee to their families to celebrate this Eastern holiday.

Saturday morning was a little blurry. One to many beers at the markets. I met Helen off the tram and we had dim sum for breakfast, dumplings and buns. There were some interesting translations. Chicken and medicine. Pig custard bun. This particular dim sum restaurant is at the end of my street and is quite the little celebrity in the world of Hong Kong restaurants.
Hopped on the tram to meander from Wan Chai to Sheung Wan, where our ferry departed for Macau.
We arrived on China land and our passports were stamped, after some confusion from my side, HK resident, UK passport, ID card, which queue? I queued up in them all.
We jumped in a taxi which took us from one corner of the island, right down to the opposite side, Coloane Village. We found a table at Nga Tim Cafe, highly recommended by Paul, THE only Hong Kong food guide for me. One jug of sangria ordered and we settled in to a long lunch. Mr G and I decided that Macau was much more enjoyable after a glass of sangria, and this has remained the tradition ever since.
We nattered away, catching up on life and love. We talked about the challenges of moving away from home, the ups and downs, living in a new country, growing up and making decisions. Helen has always inspired and encouraged me. A true friend.
With an agenda in mind we left Coloane village, after some egg tarts from the famous Lord Steow's. A famous Portuguese savoury desert, mimicked in Hong Kong, but nothing compares to the original.
We arrived at the panda pavilion a few moments later. The gardens were filled with pandas made from flowers. We took the opportunity to take some pictures. The park was huge, and unexpectedly quite. Where were all the people? It was nice to have the park to ourselves. We went into the panda enclosure, and I definitely felt I was being reunited with a fellow bear. Pandas are gorgeous. Fluffy and cute and fun. It's hard to describe a panda? But yes, they are just as amazing as I'd imagined.
From the pandas to the casino. Macau is developing fast. Each time I visit a new group of apartments shoots up into the sky. Accommodation for millions. The pandas will have new neighbours. I hope they stay in this mad place. The bears can calm and ground the gambling crowd.
We took afternoon tea (which we exchanged for a bottle of champagne) at the Venetian. I'd never consumed so much food in one day. With very full bellies we made our way to the top floor so we could ride a gondola on the Venice canal. It is truly amazing how an entire town has been erected in one building. Helen confirmed that Macau was almost an identical replica of the Las Vegas Venetian. I still don't understand gambling. It's not something I have an ounce of interest in. Helen played a few rounds of roulette but I just see it as throwing money away. Maybe I'm too cautious? Maybe I'm not a risk taker? Either way. I'll keep my money where I can see it thank you very much.
We boarded our gondola, sharing the boat with two others. We were serenaded. An impressive voice these gondola drivers had. It must be on the job description; 'must be able to sing to operatic standard and be from Italy (or close)' what was unexpected was we had ended up sharing the ride with not one opera singer, but three. The unsuspecting couple sat opposite us joined in and were obviously professional opera singers. What a treat.

A mad dash from the gondola to meet our ferry. We were booked onto the 8pm return trip to Hong Kong. It was 7.45. We were 10 minutes away, had to clear customs and passport checks. We made it.....at 8.02 and missed our boat. Luckily, there are boats every 10 minutes, they put us on the next one. With ear to ear grins, we made our way back to Hong Kong. Macau once again was magical.

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